Paint Questions & Answers List

Use clean water only where thinning is permitted by the product instructions. Do not use solvent thinners in water-based acrylic coatings.

Use Q.D. Enamel Thinners or A Grade/Lacquer Thinners as recommended for the application. Do not use Turps in Quick Drying Enamel because incompatible solvent blends can cause clumping, thickening or gelling.

No. Turps is intended for compatible alkyd brushing products. In Quick Drying systems it can cause agglomeration, clumping and eventual gelling. Use the correct Q.D. Enamel Thinners or other thinner specified for the coating.

ACRO Turps is intended for compatible alkyd brushing enamels, varnishes, plaster primer, undercoats and Truck & Tractor Enamel. Always follow the product-specific instructions before thinning.

ACRO A Grade/Lacquer Thinners is listed for general use with Quick Drying enamels, NC lacquers and Quick Drying primers. It is also useful for appropriate equipment cleaning, but always confirm compatibility before adding it to a coating.

Use the thinner specified for the 2K system. ACRO supplies 2K Thinners for 2K enamels and M.S. 4:1 primer, and Polyurethane Thinners for polyurethane enamel and PU DTM systems.

Retarder Thinners are formulated to improve the flow characteristics of sprayed lacquers and enamels. They can help where evaporation is too fast, but should only be used where compatible with the coating system.

Use ACRO Cleaning Thinners where suitable. It is intended for cleaning brushes, paint guns, machinery and equipment and for removing compatible dried paint residues. Follow normal solvent safety precautions.

Excessive colourant can upset the binder-to-pigment balance, reducing film strength, hiding, durability and drying performance. In solvent-based enamels it can also contribute to slow or incomplete drying. Deep colours should be made from the correct tint base rather than forcing a white base with excessive colourant.

Not reliably. Deep colours should be produced from the appropriate deep or clear tint base. Adding excessive colourant to a white base can weaken the coating and alter drying, durability and appearance.

Fading is a loss or change of colour during exposure, most often strongest on areas receiving direct sunlight. UV-sensitive pigments can lose colour even when the paint film itself remains intact. Exterior colour selection and the quality of the coating both affect colour retention.

Lighter patches can be caused by efflorescence, uneven porosity, moisture or alkali attack. Correct the moisture source, allow the plaster to dry and stabilise, remove salts, and prime appropriately before recoating.

Remove oil, grease, dirt, loose rust and mill scale. Abrasive blasting is the preferred preparation for heavy mill scale where practical. Chemical preparation may use a suitable phosphoric-acid cleaner followed by thorough rinsing and drying. Do not leave detergent, acid or soluble contamination on the surface before coating.

Do not rely on Turps or paint thinner as the main steel-cleaning process. Proper preparation requires removal of grease, salts, rust, mill scale and other contamination using suitable degreasing, mechanical preparation or an approved metal-cleaning process.

Depending on the exposure and coating system, ACRO options include Quick Drying Primer, Zinc Phosphate Primer and Rust Barrier. Zinc Phosphate Primer is specifically described for corrosion protection of mild steel and structural steel. Rust Barrier is a water-based anti-corrosive option for suitably prepared steel.

ACRO Zinc Phosphate Primer is a quick-drying anti-corrosive primer for mild and structural steel. It can be sprayed or dipped and may be overcoated with compatible Quick Drying enamels or alkyd undercoats and topcoats.

Yes, but only with a product designed for direct-to-metal use and on a correctly prepared surface. ACRO Direct to Metal 3 in 1 combines anti-corrosive protection, primer, undercoat and topcoat in one fast-drying system. ACRO also offers Acro Armour DTM for higher-performance 2K applications.

Quick Drying Enamel is a fast-drying industrial finishing enamel. Direct to Metal 3 in 1 is specifically designed as a combined anti-corrosive primer, undercoat and topcoat for direct application to suitably prepared metal. Product choice depends on the required coating system and service conditions.

Quick Drying Hammertone Colours provide a durable, decorative hammered-texture industrial finish on properly prepared metal. They are useful where a textured appearance and hard-wearing finish are wanted.

Only where the product is specifically approved as a protective coating. Most primers are designed primarily for adhesion and corrosion protection and should be overcoated with the specified topcoat. ACRO Rust Barrier can be used as a protective primer or coating, while other primers should be treated according to their system requirements.

First remove loose scale, contamination and poorly adhering rust. ACRO Rust Barrier can be applied to suitably prepared clean metal and sound, firmly adhering rust to help stabilise corrosion. For rusted roofs, ACRO Rubber - Rust Rehab is specifically designed as a flexible rust-converting anti-corrosive roof coating.

Use ACRO Galvanised Iron Primer on suitably prepared galvanised iron where a dedicated bonding primer is required. The surface must be clean and correctly prepared before application.

Galvanised steel is an adhesion-sensitive substrate. Clean and prepare it correctly and use a coating system suitable for galvanised metal. ACRO Galvanised Iron Primer provides a bonding layer for subsequent decorative or protective coatings.

Acro Armour 4:1 is a two-component polyurethane coating for demanding industrial and commercial applications. It provides a durable high-gloss finish and is suitable for correctly prepared steel, aluminium, galvanised steel and fibre-reinforced plastic.

Acro Armour DTM is a high-performance two-component polyurethane direct-to-metal coating. It is designed to combine anti-corrosive protection with a durable high-gloss finish on suitably prepared steel, aluminium, galvanised steel and fibre-reinforced plastic.

Roof Kote is ACRO's durable acrylic roof paint for properly prepared roof surfaces. It is UV resistant, water resistant and quick drying, with an expected service life of approximately 5–7 years when correctly applied to a properly prepared substrate.

ACRO has more than one rubberised coating. Roof & Seal is a flexible rubberised roof and waterproofing coating. ACRO Rubber is also a rubberised coating system for flexible waterproofing and protective applications. ACRO Rubber Rust Rehab combines rubberised protection with a system intended for rusted or corrosion-prone metal surfaces. The correct product depends on the substrate, condition of the surface, and whether the main requirement is waterproofing, flexibility, or corrosion protection.

Acro Rubber - Rust Rehab is designed for properly prepared rusted metal roofs and combines rust-converting, anti-corrosive and waterproofing functions. Remove loose rust, failed coatings and contamination before application.

Fiberklad Flex is a fibre-reinforced flexible waterproofing coating for roofs, parapets, flashings, joints, laps and roof screws. Its reinforced film helps bridge minor cracks and movement and can be used without a separate woven membrane in suitable applications.

Rain-Block Pro is a heavy-duty elastomeric waterproofing coating for pitched iron and tiled roofs, skylights, parapets, ridges, flashings and roof penetrations. It can be reinforced with a suitable waterproofing membrane where required.

It is not intended for areas subject to long-term ponding water. The source of ponding should be corrected and the waterproofing system selected for the actual exposure.

Do not apply it over bitumen waterproofing systems unless the application has been specifically approved. Bitumen can cause compatibility and bleed-through problems with water-based coatings.

As a guideline, Roof & Seal covers about 5–6 m²/L on the first coat and about 6–8 m²/L on the second coat. Porous, rough, corrugated or weathered surfaces will reduce practical coverage.

The guideline is approximately 2 m²/L per coat, typically in 2–3 coats. Actual consumption depends strongly on surface porosity, profile, defects and the waterproofing build required.

Roof Kote covers approximately 5–7 m²/L for the first coat on new or porous surfaces and about 6–8 m²/L for later coats on sealed or previously painted surfaces. Roof profile and condition affect actual usage.

Do not simply bury loose or failed waterproofing under new coating. Remove all loose, peeling and unsound material, identify and repair the reason for failure, clean and dry the substrate, then rebuild the waterproofing system on a sound surface.

Common causes include poor cleaning, loose rust, chalking, moisture, incompatible old coatings, insufficient surface preparation or painting before the substrate is dry. The failure must be traced before recoating.

Flexible waterproofing can bridge minor cracks and movement, but structural or actively moving cracks must first be repaired correctly. Fiberklad Flex and Roof & Seal are designed to accommodate limited movement; reinforced membrane systems may be needed at vulnerable joints.

Remove loose material and as much powder as possible, wash and dry the surface, then stabilise it with a suitable penetrating primer/sealer. ACRO Water-Based Plaster Primer is described for powdery, friable, weathered and previously painted areas and has penetrating and binding properties.

The correct primer depends on the plaster condition and coating system. ACRO Water-Based Plaster Primer is suitable for new or weathered plaster and has good alkaline resistance. Ensure new plaster is adequately cured, dry and free of salts before coating.

ACRO Universal Undercoat is an alkyd-based undercoat for prepared household surfaces such as doors, window frames and downpipes. It can also be used on hardboard, fibre cement, primed metal and wooden substrates and can be overcoated with compatible ACRO water-based or alkyd decorative products.

ACRO White Wood Primer is an alkyd-based primer for interior and exterior wood. It provides adhesion and hiding and can be overcoated with compatible ACRO decorative and solvent-based products.

Gypsum and similar smooth plaster surfaces can be soft, powdery or highly absorbent. If painted without suitable preparation, the coating may bond to a weak surface layer and peel when stressed. Remove unsound paint, stabilise and prime the substrate correctly before recoating.

Blistering can be caused by moisture ingress, trapped solvent, painting a damp surface, contamination or loss of adhesion. Find and correct the moisture or contamination source first; then remove failed paint, allow the wall to dry, prime as required and recoat.

Efflorescence is a white salt-like deposit on brick, plaster or masonry. Moisture dissolves salts in the substrate and carries them to the surface. Correct the moisture source, remove the salts and allow the wall to dry and stabilise before repainting.

First trace and repair the source of moisture. Remove loose paint and wash away salt deposits. Allow the substrate adequate time to dry and check whether salts return. Do not trap active efflorescence under a new coating.

Chalking is a powdery surface caused by weathering and UV breakdown of the coating binder. Wash away the chalk, remove loose paint and ensure the remaining surface is sound. A suitable binding or penetrating primer may be required before repainting.

Chalking produces a removable powder on the paint surface and can make the colour appear lighter. Fading is an actual loss or change of pigment colour from exposure. Wiping a chalked surface may reveal the original colour underneath; true fading will remain.

Mud cracking can occur when a water-based coating is applied too heavily, dries incorrectly or fails to form a proper film, including under temperatures below the coating's minimum film-forming conditions. Remove cracked material and recoat under suitable conditions at the correct film build.

Avoid applying water-based coatings when the substrate is too cold for proper film formation. The supplied training guidance recommends keeping the substrate around 10–15°C or above for the first few hours after application. Always follow the product data sheet and weather conditions.

Persistent moisture, shade and contamination encourage fungal and algal growth. Correct the moisture source, clean and sterilise the affected area with an appropriate biocide treatment, repair cracks, allow it to dry and then repaint with a suitable exterior coating.

Fresh or damp plaster can be strongly alkaline. Alkali and moisture can attack incompatible coating components, causing patchiness, staining, softening or blistering. Let the plaster cure and dry, correct moisture problems and use an alkali-resistant primer before recoating.

ACROKLAD is a fibre-reinforced 100% acrylic low-sheen coating for interior and exterior use. It is highly washable, UV resistant and designed for demanding exterior and high-traffic applications.

ACROLUX SHEEN is a 100% acrylic soft-sheen coating for interior and exterior walls. It is designed for a durable, highly washable finish in areas such as bedrooms, hallways and lounges.

ACROLUX MATT is a 100% acrylic ultra-matt coating for interior and exterior walls. Its matt appearance helps reduce the visibility of minor surface imperfections while providing a durable, washable finish.

LOW SHEEN is an acrylic wall coating for interior and exterior residential, commercial and contractor applications where a smooth, washable low-sheen finish is required.

CONTRACTORS NU COTE is an economical matt PVA coating for walls and ceilings in residential, commercial and contractor applications. It is intended for large-area painting where good opacity, easy application and value are important.

Matt finishes generally reflect less light and therefore show minor plaster imperfections less than sheen or gloss finishes. ACROLUX MATT is specifically described as helping reduce the appearance of minor plaster and surface imperfections.

Use a suitable synthetic pile roller selected for the surface profile. Longer pile is useful on rough or textured masonry; shorter or medium pile gives a smoother finish on smooth walls. Avoid choosing a roller only by paint type—the substrate texture and required finish matter too.

For smooth enamel finishes, use a short-pile mohair-type or suitable foam roller where the coating allows it. The aim is to lay down a thin, even film with minimal texture. Check the product instructions for solvent compatibility.

Common causes include overworking paint as it begins to dry, uneven loading, poor roller selection, excessive thinning, painting in hot or windy conditions, or failing to maintain a wet edge. Work systematically and keep the film uniform.

Orange peel is usually caused by poor atomisation or flow. Possible causes include incorrect viscosity, wrong thinner, excessive spray distance, incorrect pressure, unsuitable nozzle setup or solvent evaporation that is too fast. Correct the spray setup and use the compatible thinner.

Dry spray occurs when droplets partly dry before reaching or flowing into the surface. Excessive gun distance, high air pressure, fast solvent evaporation, hot conditions or poor gun technique are common causes. Adjust the gun, distance, pressure and compatible thinner system.

Runs and sags usually result from applying too much wet paint, holding the spray gun too close, moving too slowly, excessive thinning or poor overlap. Allow the defect to cure, sand it smooth if appropriate and recoat correctly.

Possible causes include the wrong thinner, excessive colourant, applying the coating too thickly, low temperature, poor ventilation, incompatible substrate contamination or incorrect mixing of a multi-component coating. Stop recoating until the cause is identified.

Peeling is an adhesion failure. Common causes include chalk, dust, grease, moisture, loose old paint, an unsuitable primer, painting over silicone or other contamination, or applying incompatible coatings. Remove unsound paint and correct the underlying cause before repainting.

Rust can return when corrosion was not fully stabilised, the steel was contaminated, the coating film is too thin or damaged, water reaches the steel through defects, or the selected system is inadequate for the environment. Remove loose corrosion and rebuild the anti-corrosive system on properly prepared steel.

Blisters can form from trapped moisture, solvent entrapment, heat, contamination or poor adhesion. On walls and roofs, moisture ingress is a frequent cause. Do not simply puncture and overpaint blisters; trace the source, remove failed coating and repair the substrate first.

Pinholes can result from trapped air, porous substrates, foaming, solvent release, excessive film thickness or poor spray technique. Seal porous surfaces where required and apply the coating at the recommended film build.

Gloss loss can result from UV weathering, chalking, poor film formation, incorrect thinner, dry spray, porous substrate absorption or chemical exposure. Diagnose whether the problem is at the surface or throughout the coating before recoating.

Poor hiding can be caused by excessive thinning, spreading the paint too far, insufficient coats, strong colour contrast underneath, an unsuitable tint base or uneven substrate absorption. Apply the recommended film build and use the correct primer/base where needed.

PAVE & SEAL is designed for concrete paving bricks and suitable cement-based surfaces. It provides an alkali-resistant, washable, hard-wearing exterior finish.

The coverage guideline is approximately 6–8 m²/L per coat. Actual consumption varies with the porosity, texture and condition of the paving.

A coating can only perform as well as the surface beneath it. Dust, chalk, salts, grease, loose rust, weak plaster, moisture and incompatible old coatings can all cause premature failure. Cleaning, repair, drying and correct priming are part of the coating system—not optional extras.

Ask for technical advice when the substrate is unknown, the old coating cannot be identified, there is active moisture or corrosion, the surface is chemically exposed, a 2K system is involved, waterproofing has repeatedly failed, or the job carries significant cost or warranty risk.

Alligatoring is a cracking pattern that resembles alligator skin. It usually develops when an old coating becomes hard and brittle, when incompatible coats are applied over one another, or when a topcoat dries and moves differently from the layer beneath it. Remove loose and cracked coating, sand back to a sound edge, correct any compatibility problem, prime where required and repaint with a compatible system.

This is called burnishing. Repeated rubbing, scrubbing or contact can polish a matt or low-sheen paint film and create unwanted shiny areas. Avoid aggressive cleaning and abrasive cloths. If the appearance is unacceptable, clean the wall, prepare it correctly and recoat the affected area with the appropriate finish.

Damp often shows as persistent dark patches, blistering, peeling, salt deposits, mould growth or staining. The moisture may come from plumbing leaks, roof leaks, failed waterproofing, rising damp, exterior water penetration or condensation. Find and correct the moisture source before repairing and repainting the coating.

Surfactant leaching appears as sticky, glossy, brownish or translucent streaks on some water-based coatings, especially when the paint dries in cool, humid or poorly ventilated conditions. Once the paint has fully cured, the residue can often be washed away gently. Improve ventilation and avoid painting when prolonged high humidity is expected.

Lap marks are darker or uneven bands where one section of paint has partly dried before the next section overlaps it. They are more likely in hot, dry or windy conditions or when the painter does not maintain a wet edge. Work in manageable sections, keep a wet edge and avoid overworking paint that has started to set.

Roller splatter is often caused by using the wrong roller cover, overloading the roller, rolling too fast, excessive thinning or using a very coarse roller on a smooth surface. Use a roller suited to the coating and substrate, load it evenly and apply with controlled pressure and speed.

If rain or heavy moisture reaches a freshly applied coating before it has developed sufficient cure, the film may wrinkle, run, soften or lose adhesion. Remove the damaged material once dry, prepare the surface again and repaint only when suitable dry weather is expected for the required curing period.

Frosting is a whitish surface deposit or appearance that can develop when coatings are exposed to very cold, damp conditions during early drying or curing. Do not paint onto very cold or wet surfaces. Allow the coating and substrate to dry fully, clean the affected surface and assess adhesion before recoating.

Dirt pick-up occurs when dust, pollution or airborne particles adhere easily to a coating that remains soft or tacky, or when the surface texture traps contamination. Slow drying, unsuitable weather, excessive film thickness and some low-sheen or flexible coatings can increase the effect. Let the coating cure fully and clean it according to the product instructions.

Nail-head staining occurs when unprotected or corroding steel fasteners rust and the corrosion products bleed through the paint. Remove loose rust, clean the fastener, spot-prime it with a suitable anti-corrosive primer and then restore the coating system.

Roof coatings can flake when the underlying surface is chalky, rusty, dirty, damp or poorly bonded, or when strong thermal movement stresses a weak coating system. Remove loose coating, clean and stabilise the substrate, treat corrosion or biological growth where present and rebuild the coating system on a sound dry surface.

Roof colours are exposed to intense sunlight and weathering. UV radiation can gradually alter less light-fast pigments, while chalking can make a surface look lighter even when the pigment colour underneath remains. Clean the surface first to determine whether the problem is chalking, dirt or true fading.

Algae and moss favour damp, shaded areas where water dries slowly, such as valleys, overlaps and south-facing sections. Correct drainage or water-retention problems where possible, remove growth safely, treat the surface with an appropriate biocidal cleaner and allow it to dry before recoating.

Different coatings expand and contract at different rates. A hard or brittle topcoat applied over a soft, flexible waterproofing layer may not accommodate the same movement and can crack or lose adhesion. Use only coating layers that are compatible as a complete system.

This is a delamination or adhesion failure. Galvanised steel requires careful cleaning and a compatible coating system because oils, passivation treatments and the zinc surface itself can interfere with adhesion. Remove failed coating, prepare the galvanised surface correctly and use a suitable primer or direct-to-metal system intended for galvanised steel.

Underfilm corrosion is rust that spreads beneath an apparently intact coating, often starting at a scratch, edge, pinhole, fastener or damaged area. Moisture and salts enter at the defect and corrosion creeps sideways under the paint. Remove coating back to sound, clean and prepare the steel properly, then rebuild the anti-corrosive coating system.

Pinholes can form when trapped air or solvent escapes through a coating as it dries. Excessive film thickness, porous contamination, incorrect thinner, fast evaporation, foaming or poor spray technique can contribute. Correct the spray setup, film build and solvent system before recoating.

Wrinkling can occur when the surface of a coating skins over while the material underneath is still soft, or when a second coat is applied too soon over an incompletely dried first coat. Heavy film build, incompatible solvents and cool drying conditions can worsen the problem. Let the coating cure, remove or sand defective material and recoat within the correct recoat window.

This is poor hiding or poor opacity. Common causes include excessive thinning, spreading the paint too far, too few coats, a large colour change, an unsuitable base or primer, and uneven substrate absorption. Apply the correct film build and use the appropriate primer or tint base where required.

Remove loose rust, scale, dirt and grease first. For a conventional system, prime the prepared steel with the appropriate ACRO anti-corrosive metal primer and then apply a compatible topcoat such as Quick Drying Enamel. Where a suitable direct-to-metal system is specified, follow that product’s preparation and coat requirements.

Usually yes on bare steel. Quick Drying Enamel is a topcoat and performs best over a correctly prepared, compatible primer unless the specific coating system states that it can be applied direct to metal. Previously painted sound surfaces may need cleaning, sanding and spot-priming rather than a full primer coat.

Do not simply coat over loose or active rust. Remove loose corrosion and scale, clean and degrease the surface, then use the primer or rust-treatment system specified for the job. Some specialist products are designed for prepared rusted steel, but preparation is still required.

Use a roof coating suitable for metal roofing and choose the system according to whether the roof is new galvanised metal, previously painted, or rusted. Clean and prepare the roof, treat rust and bare areas as required, and apply the selected ACRO roof coating to the current TDS.

Yes, but only if the old coating is sound, firmly attached and compatible. Wash the roof, remove chalking, loose paint, rust and contamination, sand or prepare glossy areas where required, and repair failed sections before recoating. If the old coating is peeling or unknown, test adhesion and compatibility first.

Wash and remove as much loose chalk, dust and contamination as possible. Allow the wall to dry, then stabilise a sound but powdery surface with the appropriate penetrating sealer or bonding liquid before applying the finish coat. Painting directly over weak chalk can cause poor adhesion.